URINARY CALCULI

 

This is a terrible condition that doesn’t get enough coverage. Often goat keepers and even vets are unaware of it or know very little and feed stockist rarely know of it at all.

 

What is it

Urinary calculi (also known as Urolithiasis, Calculosis or Water belly) is caused by crystals and/or stones in the bladder. They can get stuck in the urethra and  if not treated in time in can cause the bladder to burst and the animal will die.

 

Causes

1. Goats, in the uk, are usually banded (castrated using a special kind of rubber band) at only a week old. Pygmy goats are sexually mature at 3 months of age while larger goats at around 6 months. When they’re banded at such a young age their urethra will not mature and will be extremely narrow. A male goats urethra is very long, compared to a females, it also does a u-turn before heading quite a long way towards the ‘exit’.
2. Improper feeding ie - incorrect balance of calcium and phosphorus is just as much a cause as early castration. The ideal ratio is 2 parts calcium to 1 part phosphorus. Anything containing grain is a No No even if the ratio seems correct…likewise anything high in calcium (alfalfa) is off the menu. You also have to take into account the mineral content of their hay, water and anything else that they consume which is practically impossible unless you send everything off for testing.
3. Genetics can play a part due to inherited physical traits and metabolic tendencies.
4. Hard water will contain high levels of calcium and magnesium adding even more into their diet. It can also alter the taste and put the goat off drinking.
5. A diet too high in protein. Even dried grasses and grass pellets can contain high amounts of protein so look for ones that are between 10% & 12%

 

Preventing

 

1. Surgical castration at a later date, 3-6 months, will go a long way towards preventing problems. But some goats have a genetic predisposition to a narrow urethra.
2. Correct diet. Goats are natural browsers, meaning they prefer to eat from bushes, trees, and rough foliage rather than grazing on grass alone. This diet suits their unique digestive system, which is highly effective at breaking down fibrous plant material and extracting nutrients from tougher, woody plants. This ability to browse diverse vegetation allows goats to thrive in a range of environments, from pastures to rugged, brushy areas as was their natural habitat. They aren’t designed to eat goat mix or concentrates, these feeds were manufactured for the farming industry to grow fat goats quickly. So unless you’re rearing your goats for meat or milking then you should not feed them concentrates. For wethers, and some Billies, the feeding of concentrates is a huge contributing factor of urinary calculi. Hays and feed containing too much protein, phosphorus, calcium and magnesium should also be avoided eg grain and alfalfa. A ratio of 2 parts calcium and 1 part phosphorus is ideal but when you begin to add up, alongside a goat mix, the total of hay, browse, fruit & veg, chaffs, mineral licks, water etc…it’s almost impossible to work out what ratio they’re having. It is better to avoid grain altogether and feed a diet as natural as possible.
3. Feeding good quality, long stemmed meadow hay not only aids digestion but the chewing of it encourages saliva production which helps balance minerals in their system. Hay has a ratio of 2:1. As does Readigrass and Dengie meadow grass lite making them ideal additions to their diet. Avoid a ratio over 3:1 or there’s a risk of causing calcium stones (these are not broken down by ammonium chloride) Legume hay (clover) has a ratio of 5:1 and alfalfa is a whopping 15:1!! So should absolutely be avoided. Lentils should be avoided as they have a ratio of 1:4 making them high in phosphorus, nuts should also be avoided as they are generally higher in phosphorus. High phosphorus levels are the cause of struvite stones. All grains, seeds and legumes contain a high level of phosphorus.
4. Fresh water is essential to flush through them through. It is important to change their water at least once a day, goats do not like stale or dirty water. The bowl or trough you use will make a difference too, rubber is the best choice as plastic and metal can change the taste and the goat will likely drink less.
5. If you live in a hard water area it’s a good idea to get it tested and take steps to soften it if possible.
6. A selection of salt and mineral licks should be made available for you goat to select. These will enable your goat to self regulate their mineral intake and the salt will encourage them to drink even more. Loose minerals often contain wheat so are not suitable and they also often contain too much calcium as they are aimed at milking goats.
7. Pulse dosing with ammonium chloride will help break down any crystals before they can cause any harm (although there are some stones that won’t break down) Every 2-3 months give each goat a dose of ammonium chloride once a day for a week (your vet will be able to tell you how much to dose based on your animals weight) By pulse dosing you can blast any struvite stones that may be building up while maintaining the correct PH balance and therefore avoiding build up of calcium stones.

 

Symptoms

 

1. Straining as if constipated, straining to pee.
2. Hunched back, also straining to pee.
3. Loss of appetite.
4. Teeth grinding and ‘shouting’
5. Restlessness, laying down and getting up to pace before laying down again.
6. Stretching and thrusting.
7. Shivering.
8. Swollen and hard abdomen.
9. Tail twitching and or tail held high.
10. Crystals or blood stained urine on the opening to their penis.
11. Unexplained scouring.

 

Treatment

 

It is vital that you call your vet immediately if you suspect your goat is struggling to relieve themselves.

 

1. Ammonium chloride will likely be one of the first things to treat your goat with. Again your vet will work out the dosage. It will be quite a high dose and you’ll need to watch for signs of bloating and treat accordingly. Giving electrolytes will also keep them hydrated.
2. They will likely be given a cocktail of drugs such as anti inflammatories, antibiotics and buscopan (a muscle relaxant) and after a while your goat will likely get some relief and comfort, try to catch a urine sample at this point if you can as the vet can check it for signs of crystals.
3. An ultrasound may be performed to see if there are any obvious signs of stones, the vet will also be able to see if the bladder is distended.
4. Catheterisation may be an option, this isn’t done in the usual way because the length of the urethra makes it impossible, your goat will be sedated and a needle passed through to the bladder to draw out as much urine as possible. This will give your goat some relief, minimise the risk of their bladder rupturing and allow all the medication and ammonium chloride to run through the system quicker.
5. Surgical options may be discussed if your goat is considered a suitable candidate and if the vet thinks it will help them - Urethral Process Amputation is a procedure done under local anaesthetic or sedation and the tip of penis is removed.  Tube Cystostomy is when a tube is place directly into the bladder bypassing the urethra. Perineal Urethrostomy is when the urethra is rerouted to exit as a females would. These options can cost up to several thousand pounds, are not always successful, have extremely long recovery times and aren’t guaranteed to extend their life a great deal. Obviously there are goats that have been very successfully treated through surgery and go on to lead a healthy life. But it’s important to talk to your vet about all of the options available to you, talk to your family and, unfortunately, sometimes that will mean choosing to end their suffering and allow them to be put to sleep.