This is a list of things you’ll need to do regularly to maintain your goats health and wellbeing.

 

VACCINATIONS -

Goats need vaccinating against pulpy kidney and clostridium (tetanus and dysentery forms)

We use Lambivac every 6 months but you should consult with your vet as some areas are considered ‘at risk’ and require goats to have further vaccinations at different intervals or a different vaccine/s.

 

FAECAL EGG COUNT -

This is something you’ll need to do regularly, quarterly is the recommendation.

It involves collecting a small poop sample and getting it tested. You could get your vet to test it but there are many companies that offer an online service. I use Westgate Labs but there is also Poopost, Feclab, Wormcount etc…these companies send out everything you’ll need to collect and label your sample/s and an envelope to post it back to them. The results are usually very quick, you’ll know within 24-48 hours.

 

It is really important that you only treat for worms if a significant amount of eggs have been found in your sample but you don’t routinely de worm goats like cats and dogs because they can build up a resistance to the wormer causing it to fail further down the line. IF you do need to treat them then your vet will advise you on the best treatment based on what particular eggs were found in your sample. It also works out cheaper to buy your treatment from the vet , if you buy a big bottle from an online veterinary pharmacy then most of it will go to waste.

 

My goats have never actually had worms (if we don’t count Hugo who came to us riddled with them!) this is down to our enclosure floor being covered with hard wood chips thanks to our chickens and ducks removing all the grass and turning it into a swamp. We found that the wood chips not only keep the ground dry and mud free but also means there’s no grass for worm eggs to be eaten off! Having said that…I do long to be able to move somewhere with fields, in which case I’d need to start a good worming schedule.

 

CHECKING FOR PARASITES -

These little devils are part and parcel of keeping goats, I’m afraid. Lice and mites come in via hay and straw and other infected animals but there are ways of keeping them at bay and, if your goats do get infested it is easily treated.

 

We sprinkle our goats bedding with ‘Barrier’ louse powder (I’ll talk more about bedding and cleaning out further down the list)

 

Checking your goats regularly will help you keep an eye out for any little creepy crawlies and nip them in the bud. If you see signs of itching, hair loss, sore skin etc…then your vet will help you decide on the best treatment. These symptoms can also be a sign of deficiency so it’s best not to treat for an infestation unless you are certain that’s what it is.

 

FEET -

It used to be recommended to trim goats feet every 6-8 weeks but, more recently, it has been recommended that you leave them alone and only trim IF they are growing too long or causing trouble walking. Checking them regularly will help you determine if they need trimming and you can also take the opportunity to check if their feet smell (which could be a sign of fungal infection) and check in between their toes for mites or lice as it’s a great place for them to hide.

 

I’d suggest checking out YouTube videos for tutorials on how to trim your goats feet, I found them very useful, it’s really easy to do yourself. I do recommend getting a good set of foot rot shears mine came from Burgon & Ball. Net Tex also have a good reputation.

 

BRUSHING AND BATHING -

It is important to take care of your goats hair and skin, they are prone to unexplained ‘itchy scratchies’

 

Brushing is a great way to bond as well as keeping them clean and tidy, removing bits of hay, straw and other debris such as dead skin cells. It also encourages blood flow to the skin encouraging healthy growth. If, like my Joey, your goat has long hair on their flank you’ll soon discover that they will get very knotted. Keeping these knots tamed is important but avoid over brushing in the winter as you don’t want to remove any of their winter coat.

 

Bathing is a great way to relieve inflammation caused by parasites, allergies and fungal infections. I use an antibacterial, anti fungal dog shampoo or a tea tree based shampoo both are suitable for goats but you can buy goat specific shampoos from online veterinary pharmacies. Bathing or showering should only be done when the weather is warm and after moulting is complete as being wet for a prolonged period can lead to illness. If needed during the winter months I use an antibacterial, anti fungal spray on particulate sore/itchy patches. Nappy creams and ointments can be very soothing too. A horse product, Camrosa, can help in some cases but some goats are very sensitive to it. Patch tests are advised when using any new products on their skin.

 

CLEANING OUT -

Because, as back garden goat keepers, we generally don't have huge areas. This will mean a regular clean out every week or two with 'spot cleaning' in between.

We do ours weekly and keep it very simple. Once all the old bedding has been removed we sprinkle ground sanitizer all over and this soaks up any damp spots while also deodorising. We then spread a layer of wood shavings (sawdust is too dusty and may cause respiratory issues) followed by a layer of straw at one end and their raised bed. We sprinkle louse powder on the bedding to help prevent mites and lice.

Every day we poo pick and remove any sodden bedding, sprinkling ground sanitizer to dry up urine patches, replacing it if necessary and sprinkling with louse powder again.

 

SEASONAL CLEANING -

A couple of times a year we do jet wash our barn, hardstanding and drains. We use Jeyes fluid but you can choose what ever disinfectant you want. Always follow the manufacturers instructions to the letter, taking appropriate precautions.

 

FENCING -

Regularly check your fencing for signs of damage and fix as necessary.