Activated Charcoal Powder -

We don’t keep this because we have deliberately grown our hedges to be suitable for goats to eat. But if there is the slightest possibility that your goat might accidentally eat something that is toxic then drenching with water and charcoal could potentially save their lives. Obviously you should call your vet in the event that your goat eats a toxic plant or food.

 

Ammonium Chloride -

Having lost 3 of my original wethers to urinary calculi (kidney/bladder stones) I regularly dose them with this even though mine are now all on grain free diets.

Every 2-3 months I add a 5ml teaspoon to their feed (mixed in with a small amount of soaked grass pellets and chopped vegetables to make it palatable) once a day, each, for 7 days. This should help prevent the formation of crystals in the urine. I also feed them citrus fruits periodically, apple cider vinegar in their water occasionally is also a good idea.

It’s important not to do any of the above too often as they can affect the ph of the rumen which can affect digestion and cause many health problems.

 

Bicarbonate of Soda -

This is a good thing to have as it can help in the first signs of bloat. If you know that your goat has eaten too much of their own food or has broken into the chicken food (or rabbit, horse etc…whatever animals you also keep) then drenching with a mixture of water (or oil, any will do) and bicarbonate of soda will help them feel more comfortable. If they are displaying signs of discomfort (I’ll talk more about this in another section) then you must call your vet. Some bloating is part of the daily digestion process for goats BUT actual ‘bloat’ is a very serious condition that can be life threatening.

 

Digital Thermometer -

 If you’re ever concerned about your goats health it’s a good thing to check their temperature. A normal body temperature for a goat is between 38.6C and 40C. If it is above  40C it could indicate fever, infection or inflammation. If it is below 38.6C the goat may be experiencing hypothermia, shock, or weakness from illness. It’s advisable to call your vet in any case of illness but knowing their temperature will help determine if it is an emergency or not.

 

 

Brush -

I use a double sided dog brush, it has pins on one side which is great for getting through knots and (after moulting is well underway) helping to remove matted undercoat. It’s also important to remove straw, hay, grass seeds etc that can get matted into the hair. The softer bristles on the other side is gentler for the face and  great all over for removing dead skin cells and massaging the skin to promote blood flow. Regular grooming can help with bonding while also checking for mites, lice, cuts and abrasions.

A rubber grooming mitt is also good to have for those that are nervous about being brushed, simply ‘stroking’ them with this will soothe them while also removing dirt, grease and loose skin and hair. They can also be used wet during a ‘bath’

 

Collar -

Collars are very handy to have for holding your goat when brushing, bathing, foot trimming etc… most wethers are also disbudded (horns removed) so there’s nothing to hold onto, goats don’t have a scruff either. Obviously you’ll also need leads too if you have a license for walking your goats.

BUT it is inadvisable for your goats to wear a collar all the time as they can easily get caught up on fencing and play equipment. Strangulation can occur.

 

Foot rot shears -

An important tool in goat keeping. It is recommended to check your goats feet regularly and trim as needed. Check out YouTube for tutorials on how to do this. I know it’s daunting but it really is very straightforward.

 

Footwear -

Always wear appropriate footwear, crocs or wellies are good, these must only be worn while tending to your goats in their barn/stable and enclosure/field to help prevent the spread of possible diseases.

 

Ground sanitising powder -

It’s impractical to jet wash the barn/stable out every time we clean them out as it takes too long to dry out, especially in winter. So we use Net Tex ground sanitizer, sprinkled all over the floor and other surfaces. It dries out and deodorises any wet patches, kills any worm eggs that might be present and kills mites and lice that may be lurking in corners and crevices.

 

Hay Fork -

For ease of cleaning out and/or moving hay around.

 

Horse poop scoop -

Regularly removing poop from indoor areas and outdoors will help keep flies at bay in summer months whilst also going someway towards preventing worms.

 

Jeyes Fluid -

This isn’t something that gets used very often but every now and then things get a bit stinky! We do jet wash our barn twice a year, or the hardstanding and drains occasionally and will put down jeyes fluid. Always read the instructions of this, or any other chemical you choose, to use for proper handling.

 

Louse powder -

We use ‘Barrier’ louse powder (it smells lovely!) on all fresh bedding and occasionally along the backs of our goats

 

Medication -

It is unlikely that you will need a supply of any medication, unlike farmers and breeders who have a lot of animals and will use them on a regular basis. For us garden goat keepers it makes no sense to keep these things as, firstly, it is not cost effective and, secondly, too much will be wasted.

It is important to consult your vet in all instances of illness in order to get a correct diagnosis and then the correct treatment and dosage (farmers and breeders see these things on a daily basis and are more than familiar with diagnosing and treating common illnesses)

 

Metal dustpan and bristle brush -

For getting into the corners and crevices or spot cleaning.

 

Scissors -

For cutting the twine on hay and straw bales and opening bags. Also for cutting off any badly matted hair. Keep a dedicated pair in your store, they should not be going to and from the kitchen.

 

 

Shampoo -

It’s is good to have shampoo on standby, goats are very prone to the ‘itchy scratchies’ and bathing is very soothing. I use an anti fungal, antibacterial dog shampoo. Any will do but I like Cooper & Gracie, they have a wide range of products like shampoo, spray and cream all aimed at itchy skin and fighting parasites.

 

Sharps box -

You must have a sharps box on site. If your vet is giving a single injection they will take the syringe and needle away with them. Occasionally you may be left with a course of medication that requires injection your goat/s and your used syringes and needles must be safely disposed of. Once your bin is full you can ask your vet to take it away for safe disposal, they will give you a certificate to prove that this has been done.

 

Shovel -

For removing sawdust during a big clean out or removing wet bedding during a spot clean.

 

Syringes -

These are handy to have in a variety of sizes for drenching or washing out eyes or wounds etc… drenching is when you use a syringe (without a needle) to pour liquids down the throat, usually for bloat, urinary calculi or ingesting toxic foods.

 

Purple spray -

Is an antiseptic, antibacterial spray for minor cuts and scrapes or foot rot. It creates a barrier against dirt and flies.

 

Veterycin -

Is an antibacterial spray for deep wounds, it promotes faster healing and helps prevent infection.

 

Wheelie bin -

Contact your local council to get an appropriate wheelie bin for safe disposal of used bedding.